Deconstructing Villanelle
Comprising over 20 raw plant materials Villanelle is one of the few fragrances which can be proudly considered as niche and 100% botanical. By avoiding cliche formulas and standards Villanelle is a dynamic scent which changes depending on the current season.
Perfume Notes & Nature Elements
Let’s take a look at the key notes which can consist of one or more ingredients and may form more complex accords:
Storm as reflected in top citrus notes such as bergamot, lime, etc.
Wild Flowers and Wild Herbs found in the woods as reflected by clary sage, lavender, violet, marjoram, etc.
Moss, as reinterpreted by an accord of green and earthy notes including seaweed.
Soil, a complex accord consisting of spikenard, vetiver and a number of resins, etc.
Leafage, fresh and infinitely green, as reflected by violet, galbanum, blackcurrant, etc.
What are the key ingredients which define Villanelle? Those are definitely violet, vetiver, lavender, marjoram, clary sage. As a synesthete, I see those materials as clean green notes which was the objective of the whole formula, the verdant forest floor scent intermingled with ionised storm air.
The compound structure of Villanelle is a result of more sophisticated raw materials, most of the ingredients are not essential oils but absolutes, CO2 extracts and resins which reveal the subtle notes essential oils cannot have. Absolutes have more round, buttery notes while essential oils, used mostly for aromatherapy, are considered sharper and stronger; CO2 extracts give a more precise scent profile of a plant, resins are the purest raw form which some plants exude. Let’s compare the common lavender essential oil and absolute. The oil will have the famous and notorious among perfumers sharp top notes depending on the variety and its origin, French, English and Italian lavender have a smooth profile, cheaper versions, like Bulgarian are less appreciated. On the other hand, lavender absolute, in its thick form of a dark rich emerald colour (the oils is usually half transparent, yellowish) smells absolutely delicious, soft, slightly green, creamy floral and more long lasting on skin. Like all of my perfumes, Villanelle is just an example of the quality over quantity approach.
Dynamism, Volatility & Aromatherapy
Every few months Villanelle changes its direction but stays within the boundaries of the essentials. In cold seasons it may become dark and smokey, in warm weather it is light and fresh. While for most people the change cannot really be traced, it is only when you compare two samples, you will feel a light touch which defines the character of the perfume. Villanelle is a genderless and seasonless fragrance, while some people think of it is a heavier perfume, I would experiment with the amount you use, this can be applied to all botanical perfumes.
An incredible fact most people do not know about plant based perfumes is that most materials never stay in the same form, every batch is different, the organic matter, including flowers, leaves, stems, roots, seeds, etc. changes its aroma depending on season, origin and the form of extraction. As with all natural perfumes, some ingredients may become scarce or the prices may rise if the harvest was not good or was damaged due to different factors, so a perfumer has to find a substitute as close as possible so as to replicate the original formula. This does not happen very often but is part of the sustainable process called natural perfume making. On the other hand, in some cases the formula needs to be adjusted so as to comply with the changes which occur in the cosmetic regulations in the EU every few years. Whether you are a connoisseur or an amateur in botanical perfumery, these are probably the first and foremost things to be accepted and acknowledged before you start wearing natural perfumes: botanical scents are highly dynamic from batch to batch, they are volatile and do not last as long as synthetic perfumes, but in spite of those two facts, they are transformative. What does this mean? Villanelle may not be consistent in every batch of its production and may last for about 2-6 hours on skin (and up to a few days on clothes) but its precious ingredients carry the ancient wisdom of plants, they are aromatherapeutic and have a positive impact on your mind and self-awareness, simply speaking, as all botanical fragrances, it makes you feel good while you are wearing it:
Lavender relaxes, fights stress and promotes sleep;
Bergamot is used during periods of depression, sadness or grief;
Marjoram is used for emotional support, stress, anxiety;
Vetiver is helpful for emotional, spiritual applications;
Spikenard is intended to help promote sleep and relaxation;
Galbanum is widely used for meditation and prayer;
Clary Sage is widely used in a number emotional and feminine issues.
I have heard so many times (and experience it myself) that botanical perfumes do have a positive impact on the way we feel when we wear them, that is why I highly recommend to use Villanelle not only for people around you but exclusively for yourself. Apply perfume even when you are alone at home, before going to bed, when you wake up, etc. Villanelle is perfect for any mid-season, it reminds me of the greenery during my long walks in the woods in Flanders, due to its multidimensional aroma, it is a landscape filled with large and tiny elements found in the wide open fields, on narrow mossy paths, under massive oak trees, in the fleeting days of May and September; I feel the smell, the texture, the sounds, I feel I am part of something bigger but kin to me, where, perhaps, we should pay a visit to more often.