Sambacus Perfume

“This poetry. I never know what I'm going to say.” 
― Rumi

Reading Rumi`s poetry is like speaking to a teacher, mentor who knows everything and has an answer to any of your questions. Using simple words, expressions but yet combining mysticism and the language of poetry he is able to approach even a modern reader. Sambacus is a tribute to the beauty of verse, prose, teachings and the language itself. Shifting the boundaries between religion, the aesthetics of word, dance and meditation practices, the universe of Rumi is a world heritage, the centre of which I re-interepreted as Jasmine, the well-known, classic, timeless, ancient and most unisex plant essence.

When designing a perfume, I have a certain fragrance profile in my mind, I write down the notes I want to "hear", the combinations which might work. But as it turns out perfumes have their own life. Because natural perfumes are so dynamic and have not only their body in their materials blended together but also soul which unfolds and develops with time and speaks to each person differently, they deserve to have their own character, so unique that I do not even dare to change it (as it often happens with people). I leave them as they are even though I do not agree with them in everything. 

For me, Sambacus is one of those fragrances which decided to live its own life. Some characteristics tend to dominate and make some so special, be it in a good or bad way. But we all do agree that this is what makes us so different.

Due to a high concentration of base notes, which so normal for parfum extraits, it feels rich and heavy. Well, the first impression can be like that and it is reflected in its bitter balsamic notes. They are like a veil hiding the sweet pearls of the heart of the perfume. Galbanum  is an intense top note which is sharp green. It is slightly sweetened with blood orange and lime which give it slightly fresh citrus nuances.

The heart of Sambacus appears quite fast, though I cannot say how it will smell on your skin. They say some people have warmer skin, thus it makes top notes evaporate faster. I think, I do. Maybe that is why I am not a big fan of fresh top notes and prefer slightly heavier and rich scents. But I do not exclude top notes from natural perfumes at all. They must accompany perfumes but they will never give that first impression out of a bottle and on a perfume strip! I test all my perfumes on my skin. I never use strips. They do tend to lie.

Ylang ylang and mimosa create a wonderful soft sweet sillage around the main note of the perfume - jasmine sambac, a slightly minty and endlessly floral blossom. The middle notes are light, delicate and dulcet. But it does not mean that Sambacus is a perfume exclusively for women. That is why the start and the end of the perfume have a more unisex structure. Jasmine as a truly oriental oil is widely worn by men in the East.

But one may feel, a tobacco, caramel like tone throughout the perfume. It is tonka and amber playing at the very end but giving their top volatile notes to the whole fragrance. The base is sweet, resinous and pleasant. Sambacus is not a typical jasmine scent, it is my interpretation of jasmine sambac which is much greener than jasmine grandiflorum, but they share the sweet floral heart. Everyone will agree that jasmine is timeless. Although many people tend to look for something more interesting in perfumes these days. I highlighted the darker part of the blossom intertwined with its minty freshness.

Kamila AubreComment